Standing or stand collars will never go out of style. A standing collar's simplicity and clean lines can be applied to just about any style and any garment whether it is a woven or a knit. As a sewing beginner (if you are one), you'll certainly strive to learn how to sew a few basic collar applications- A stand collar is one of them. It is simple to pattern, sew and understand construction-wise, and can be used in combination with other styles of collars such as rolled and classic shirt collars.
As a beginner, a simple standing collar is a great way to learn the basic techniques applied to sewing all sorts of collars from simple to more complex. Before getting to the sewing steps, it is actually quite helpful to learn how to make a pattern for a basic stand collar. Drafting a stand collar pattern is quite simple and it helps you understand the neckline area better also allowing you the ability to control the design, size and shape of the standing collar.
The best way to get started is with the most basic of standing collars- a rectangular one piece collar that gets folded onto itself to create the collars backing. As you'll see from the steps to follow, making the pattern from scratch is actually quite simple if you have the neckline measurements at hand.
In this case, there is a center back seam at the garment's back. In order to sew a stand collar with a slit, a seam (whether at the center back or center front) is required.
1. Starting on one edge of the center back seam, measure along the curve of the neckline carefully using measuring tape as shown. Measure around the neckline until you reach the other edge of the center back seam as shown. Note this measurement.
In this tutorial the total neckline measurement is 17". Keep in mind that this also includes the center back seam allowance which is 1/2" on both center back edge. What this means is that the actual length of the finished collar (when all the seam allowance is clean finished) is actually 16". If this sounds a bit confusing, don't worry! Everything will become much clearer as you move down the steps below.
NOTE: It is so important in pattern-making that you have the right tools. You don't need to spend a lot on complicated french curves and rulers because truly, only a few basic tools will be used for almost all pattern drafting steps. Just invest in the 18" clear plastic ruler shown above, which you can find at almost all art and craft stores, and a simple french curve. Learn more about the basic tools you need here: Want To Learn How to Sew and Make Your Own Patterns? These Are The Basic Supplies You Need To Have.
2. Using the ruler, draw a straight line measuring the entire length of the neckline (from step 1 above). In this tutorial, the total neckline measurement including center back seam allowance is 17 inches.
3. Decide on the width of the final stand collar and double this measurement. For example, in this tutorial, the width of the final stand collar is 1 1/4". We've taken this measurement and doubled it to allow the collar to fold onto itself. When doubled, the final measurement for the width of the rectangular pattern becomes 2.5"
At both edges of the horizontal line you drew, mark a perpendicular vertical line measuring 2.5". Repeat this step on both ends of the 17" horizontal line.
As you can see form the image above, the clear plastic ruler that is broken down into 1/16" increments, allows you to place the ruler such that you achieve a perfectly perpendicular angle at the correct measurement (2.5") from the bottom.
4. Measure along the entire horizontal line up 2.5" as shown and mark with dash lines.
5. Using the ruler, connect the dash lines to form a rectangle.
This rectangular shape, when folded over, will serve as the stand collar- but we're not done yet! We still have to add seam allowance.
Thus, add 1/2" on both top and bottom of the rectangle lengthwise.
With the seam allowance now added, just a few more important marking steps, and you're done!
As mentioned above, a rectangular one piece stand collar gets folded onto itself lengthwise for clean finishing purposes. To make this more clear, it helps to mark the fold line on the actual sewing pattern.
The fold line is the exact halfway point lengthwise between the top and bottom lengthwise edges of the rectangular pattern. Using a ruler, draw a straight line to mark this halfway line. Write "fold line" on top of this line so that it is not confused with a seam line.
Next, it is extremely important that you mark the shoulder notches. This will make it so much easier in the sewing process.
8. To do this, go back to the garment's neckline and using a measuring tape, measure from the edge of the center back to the shoulder seam as shown. The total measurement in this case is 3 1/2". Keep in mind that this measurement includes the 1/2" (half inch) seam allowance at the center back edge.
9. With this measurement in hand, go back to the collar pattern and measure from the outer most edge towards the inside of the rectangle and place a vertical dash mark at 3 1/2" (3.5"). Repeat the same step on the other side of the rectangle.
10. Extend the vertical line into the seam allowance and and add a horizontal dash to form a "T" shape thus marking the shoulder notch.
The final pattern should have two shoulder notches along the seam allowance.
The outer edges of the rectangle correspond to the center back edges on the garment- the standing collar slit will be placed at the center back opening. Remember the slit of a standing collar always gets sewn into a seam on the garment.
Once the fabric is cut using the pattern (as you'll see the next tutorial: How to cut and sew a one piece rectangular sewing pattern), the fabric is half-interfaced, folded onto itself and both shoulder notches on the collar are aligned to the shoulder seams of the garment.
To complete the sewing pattern, carefully cut along the outer edge of the rectangle to separate it from the rest of the paper.
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