I've been wanting to write this little tutorial for a little while now. I'm not exactly sure if it was my fear of sewing a fly front zipper or never quite finding the time, but it has been put on the back burner for about a year now. Now that I'm finally getting down to it, I'm feeling pretty inspired.
It is true, all zippers can feel a bit intimidating. However, a fly front style in particular is its own spices, or shall I say, beast. I was forced into sewing one recently when I created some custom outfits for two (super talented) musicians (I'll show you more later!). This particular fly front zipper belonged to a pair of jean-like mens trousers. Needless to say, it had to look the part and function by the book.
In the steps below, I'll show you the steps for sewing this exact zipper, including an intro to the pattern pieces you need and how to put it all together. Although the zipper in this tutorial is sewn into a pair of pants, an identical process will work for sewing one to a skirt, given that there is a seam able to house it, of course.
What is a fly front zipper? As the name suggests, this style is sewn to the fly of women's or menswear trousers (although conventionally used for almost all men's bottoms). There is a directional rule to differentiate between womens wear and menswear: In women's clothing, the fly placket is positioned right over left while in men's clothing it is left over right (shown in this tutorial).
I've had a personal obsession with pockets for years. I love them all regardless of style and find them to be one of the primary functional elements in a garment. Today, I'll show you how to sew one of my all time favorites: the welt pocket. A classic, tailored pocket that is conventionally used with men's trousers, suit jackets, vests and other menswear and womenswear tailored items. Although they seem to be more prevalent in menswear, I love seeing a welt pocket as a design element in more casual women's wear.
The clean, high quality finish of a welt pocket can elevate a garment's look and function regardless of whether this a business-appropriate style or a pair of casual shorts.
There are two main types of welt pockets: single and double welt, although these derive other styles.
Naturally, the single welt pocket has a single welt (rectangular tab) while the double has two, usually equal width taps or welts. As you might have already guessed, the single welt is easier to sew simply for the fact that there is less stitching and measuring involved in comparison to a double style.
I do have to admit that welt pockets can be a bit tricky for sewing beginners, but after you sew a few of them, they will definitely start looking more uniform and professional! So if you love welt pockets as much as I do, don't give up on the first try! I recommend that you don't move on to the double welt pocket until you feel comfortable with sewing a single welt.
OK, before we move on to the sewing steps below, here are a few things to keep in mind with regards to the construction and styling of welt pockets:
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