Although I've done a set in sleeve tutorial before, this one is going to be a little different. In this week's video, I'll show you not only how to sew a basic jacket sleeve but also how to add lining to the sleeves individually, when the rest of the jacket is left unlined.
Partially lining a garment can pose some technical challenges but will always result in a higher quality finish. Speaking of challenges, sleeves are one of those elements that can be a bit intimidating especially when they need to be lined. As you go through the process described below, take each step one at a time and you'll love the end result!
So why not add full lining to the jacket? Wouldn't it be easier?
The answer is yes. Full lining is basically the mirror image of the self garment and often times, does not require additional sewing patterns to be drafted. It is also undeniably easier to sew since you don't have to clean finish any of the seam raw edges individually as it self finishes on its own.
There are however, many instances when full lining simply may not work due to a multitude of design and construction requirements. Examples of such situations include:
- The overall garment will be too bulky if lining is added
- The lining will affect the overall drape of the garment (if you are sewing a flowy blouse or dress, for instance)
- In case of sewing a more casual style (lining usually adds a more formal, finished effect). In cases as such, adding lining to only the necessary portions of a garment is usually your best bet.
Here are some instances when partial lining (as opposed to full lining) is ideal for finishing a garment:
- Only a portion of the garment cannot be clean finished by any other means but lining.
- A portion of a garment uses fabric that has a wrong side not suitable or comfortable enough to touch bare skin.
- You need added thickness and coverage in certain areas but not others. For example, you may be using a thin or light color fabric and need an added layer at the bottom of a skirt or dress.
- A garment's edge is too thick to be stitched when folded. In this case, lining it may provide the best finishing technique.
- For design purposes. For example, a portion of the garment should not have any visible top stitching on its right side in which case, partial lining will provide the prefect clean finishing method.
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Designer by trade and dressmaker at heart. I spend most of my days obsessing over new fabrics and daydreaming new ideas.
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