Finishing Facings At The Zipper Opening By Machine
When sewing a neck facing with a zipper closure, one of the most perplexing aspects of completing the facing is handling the facing layer at the zipper opening edges. The good news is that finishing facing edges at the zipper is a much simpler than it looks and can be accomplished both by hand or by machine. In the example below, you'll learn the machine stitched version. Keep in mind that this technique works best with invisible and separating zipper applications.
1. When aligning and pinning the facing layer to the neckline edge, extend the seam allowance housing the zipper flat on the table and align the facing's vertical end with that of the zipper seam allowance. In this position, the zipper tape should be sandwiched in between. Insert a pin at the top (align the neckline edge) to keep the facing layer in this position.
After stitching the facing to the neckline edge, notch and understitch to complete the application. Before flipping the finished facing to the garment's wrong side, align the vertical facing edge with that of the zipper seam allowance and insert pin perpendicularly to secure all layers - the zipper tape should be sandwiched in between.
Using a zipper presser foot, machine stitch through all layers of the facing zipper tape and garment layer underneath, at about halfway through the seam allowance as pictured above, remove each pin as you approach it. The zipper foot should be aligned such taht the needle corresponds to body of the garment and aligns next to the zipper teeth (underneath the facing layer). Repeat the alignment and stitching process on the other zipper opening edge.
Once complete, flip the facing layer to the wrong side of the garment to expose the clean finished neckline edge and zipper opening. Iron the facing's folded edges created at the zipper area to complete the faced zipper area.