How To Finish A Neck Facing At The Zipper Opening By Machine

When sewing a neck facing with a zipper closure, one of the most perplexing aspects of completing the facing application is handling the facing layer at the zipper opening edges. However, finishing facing edges at the zipper is actually much simpler than it looks, and can be accomplished both by hand or machine. In the example below, you'll learn the machine stitched version.
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Note: This technique works best with invisible and separating zipper applications. 

1. When aligning and pinning the facing layer to the neckline edge, extend the seam allowance housing the zipper flat on the table and align the facing's vertical end with the garment's seam allowance edge. In this position, the zipper tape should be sandwiched in between. Insert a pin at the top (along the neckline edge) to keep the facing layer in this position. 

2. Once the facing unit is stitched to the neckline edge, notch the seam allowance and understitch (the facing layer) to complete the application.

Before flipping the finished facing to the garment's wrong side, align the vertical facing edge with that of the zipper seam allowance and insert pins perpendicularly to secure all layers - the zipper tape should be sandwiched in between these two fabric layers. ​

3. Using a zipper presser foot, machine stitch through all layers of the facing, zipper tape and garment layer underneath, at about halfway through the seam allowance as pictured above. Remove each pin as you approach it. The zipper foot should be aligned such that the needle corresponds to the body of the garment and aligns next to the zipper teeth (underneath the facing layer).

To complete the application, repeat the alignment and stitching process on the other zipper opening edge. 

4. As a last step, flip the facing layer to the wrong side of the garment, exposing the clean-finished neckline edge and zipper opening, and iron the facing's folded edges created at the zipper area.