​6 Ways To Clean-Finish Facing Outer Edges

Shaped facings are used to clean finish garment's raw edges by enclosing them with a facing compartment, usually cut from the same fabric as the garment. While the facing's inner edge is sewn to the garment's raw edge the facing finishes, the outer edge is exposed n the garments wrong side and thus should be clean finished to prevent it from fraying. This is either enclosed with lining if the garment is fully lined or finished individually using the technique most suitable for the garment and fabric at hand. It is easiest to handle this outer edge before the the facing is stitched to the garment. Here are 6 techniques you can use to clean finish an outer facing edge:

 Overedge stitching like serging or zigzag:  This is the simplest, fastest and most readily available technique you can use to clean finish facing edges. Overedge stitches can be applied by hand or by machine and their primary use is to encase fabric raw edges and thus prevent them from fraying throughout the garment's life cycle. Once the facing compartment has been stitched and its individual seam ironed flat, apply a serging stitch (if you have an overlock sewing machine) or a zigzag stitch on your home sewing machine along the entire outer edge of the facing compartment. If your fabric fraying heavily, use a denser stitch application. 

A folded and topstitched finish provides a cleaner, more professional finish compared to a regular serged edge. If the fabric does not fray, the facing's outer edge is simply folded at about 1/4" toward the fabric wrong side, pressed to crease the folded edge, a dn topstitched to complete. Since most fabrics tend to fray when cut, you should apply an overedge stitch to the facing's raw edge before folding and topstitching it.

A hong kong application is completed using a bias fabric strip. The bias strip is stitched to the facing edge similar to a single layer biding, however, when the strip is folded to encase the facing's raw edge it is left flat instead of being folded under the way a binding strip is. On the application's right side, the finish looks identical to a bias bound finish. If you flip the facing layer on its wrong side, the bias strip's raw edge is left exposed. The fabric strip must be cut on the bias so taht it has enough flexibility to mold along the facing's curved edge.

​ A hong kong facing edge finish is used with more tailored, structured items that are often heavier like jackets and coats. It also provides a semi decorative finish, especially when contrast bias fabric strips are used. 

A bias bound finish is a classic edge finishing technique that is completed using pre-cut and often pre-folded bias binding. The binding strip encases the facing's raw edge and is folded in on both sides of the application (right and wrong side of the facing layer). Bias bindings can be cut at home or store bought in a pre-packed, and comes in a few different styles including single layer, double layer, and pre-folded binding. 

A rolled edge finish is a technique more often completed by hand although it cam also be applied  by machine using a special hemming presser foot. As the name suggests, a rolled hem results in a very narrow finish which encases the fabric raw edge with a double fold. The finished fold is often no more than 1/8" in width. Although bot as commonly used, a rolled facing edge finish is often applied with light, silk fabrics that are difficult to machine stitch. 

Twill tape is used as a semi-decorative facing edge finish. Instead of encasing the facing's raw edge, the twill tape simply hides it underneath. The twill tape is stitched form the facing's right side and aligned to fully cover the facing edge. If the facing's, fabric frays when cut, use an oevredge stitch like serging or zigzag to encase the edge prior to aligning and stitching the  twill tape.