​Understanding Armhole Shaped Facings In Dressmaking

A an armhole shaped facing is used to enclose armhole raw edges and molding perfectly to the armhole shape. A shaped facing is usually 2-3 inches wide and constructed such that it takes the exact shape of the area and edge it clean finishes. The facing compartment is first constructed separately then aligned and stitched and stitched to the are it finished. The facing's face side is the mirror image of the garment's right side as shown above. 

Since shaped facings take the exact form of the area they clean-finish, they require sewing patterns for a precise cut. Conventionally, and armhole facing is constructed of two separate pieces to match the front and back armhole edges. Similar to how the garment is constructed at the armhole, the facing compartment has a shoulder seam and and side seam (underarm). When the facing compartment is aligned to the armscye edge, these two seams should match perfectly. In some cases, an armhole facing can be cut as a single piece which is connected at the shoulder and only has one seam at the underarm. 

When cutting the facing pieces, you will need to cut two of the front and two of the back facing layers. It is important to note here that two front and respectively back piece should be the mirror image of each other as pictured above. This is easily accomplished if you always align the fabric layers with right sides touching when cutting the two facing pieces simultaneously. 

As noted above, the facing compartment is first stitched individually treating the seams as you would any conventional garment seams: in this instance, they are ironed with the seam allowance layers open. It is also recommended that the outer facing edges are clean finished prior to aligning and stitching the facing to the garment. Doing so will provide a lot more comfort during the edge finishing process as you won't have to manage the entire garment just to clean finish the facing edge. 

Once complete, the facing compartment is aligned to the garment's armscye with face sides touching, edges and seamlines aligning. The two edges are then stitched together at the designated seam allowance. 

When complete, the facing is flipped to the inside of the garment and if cut and constructed correctly, should lay complete flat against the wrong side of the garment surface. 

Before flipping the armhole shaped facing to the garment's wrong side, it is essential taht the seam allowance is clipped with wedge notches along the covered portion of the underarm, and the facing layer understitched to keep it flat and prevent it form rolling to the outside of the finished garment.