Mini Tutorial: Sewing A Lined Garment With Front/Back Seam
The technique described below can only be used with garments that have a front or back fully separating seam. The garment shown below features a center back seam:
1. Once the garment and lining pieces are cut and their curved edges are staystitch, align the garment and long shoulder seam edges separately and stitch them at the designated seam allowance.
2. Iron all shoulder seams with the seam allowance layers open and place the lining compartment on top of the garment layer such taht face sides are stitching and and the edges of the armholes and neckline perfectly align. In this position, the garment's shoulder seams should align with those of the lining.
3. Pin the neckline edges horizontally (perpendicular to the edge) and stitch the neckline at the designated seam allowance - 1/2" in this tutorial.
4. Trim the seam allowance down if it is too wide, and clip wedge-notches at the curved are of the neckline. These notches should be clipped into the seam allowance, close to the seam stitch but not so close that it weakens the seam or you risk accidentally clipping the stitching.
5. From the lining face side, iron the neckline seam with the seam allowance edge pointing away form the garment layer and aligned directly under the lining layer. Understitch the neckline edge, by stitching through the lining and seam allowance layers underneath at bout 1/8" distance form the seamline. This stitch will stabilize the lining preventing it from rolling to outside of the garment, as well as keep the neckline edge smooth and flat,.
6. Repeat the stitching and notching process described above with each armhole seam.
7. Flip the garment to its right side through the garment opening and one of the shoulder areas as shown above.
8. Using sleeve board, iron each armhole edge seam with the seam allowance layers directed under the lining layers and again, understitch the armhole edges as baste as you can. It is easiest to start at each garment side and move toward the shoulder seam as you understitch- you'' have to do this a few times, starting at each side seam opening area.
9. Now that all edges are fully lined and clean finished, align the rest of the seam edges with face sides touching such that the garment edges and those of the lining are individually aligned. The seams separating the garment layer form the lining should also overlap and match up perfectly. Insert pins perpendicular to the edge to keep the edges secured during the stitching process- you should treat this as any any conventional seam.
10. Starting at the garment's (or lining's) bottom edge stitch at the designated seam allowance until you arrive at the lining's bottom edge. Once stitched, iron the entire seam (lining and garment) with the seam allowance edge open as shown.
Repeat the full seam alignment and stitching process on all garment seams including the side seams and center back opening.