Aligning A Front Separating Zipper Under A Placket - Basting Stitch
Ever wondered how you can perfectly align a separating zipper under a side placket? Here is a simple technique you can use to always achieve an accurate zipper alignment:
Align the garment opening edges housing the separating zipper with face sides touching and edges aligning as you would any regular seam. Insert pins perpendicular to the edge to keep the two layers aligned.
Switch your machine's stitch setting to the longest stitch length available- this is called machine basting. Machine baste the pinned edges at the designated seam allowance. In ti example, the seam allowance is 1". Remove each pin as you approach it.
Using a seam ripper, clip every 5-6 stitches along the entire garment opening.
Iron the seam with the seam allowance layers open as shown above. Iron from the wrong side of the seam and be careful not to accidentally pull the edges apart. Handle the seam gently form this point forward.
Keeping the zipper closed align and stitch it to the seam allowance layers as needed. Use the closed (basted) seamline as a guide in the alignment process.
Once the zipper is attached and the placket is topstitched, all you have to do is gently pull the seam edges apart- this will naturally separate the clipped basting stitch resulting a perfectly aligned zipper application, with the zipper being fully covered by the placket. Once the entire seam is separated pull any loose threads that remain stuck within the garment opening edges.