How To Sew A Closed-End Exposed Zipper
A closed-end exposed zipper is always stitched into the fabric surface and requires a facing or stay in order to clean finish the slot that houses it.
1. Measure and cut the zipper slot facing and a matching inetrfacing piece. This facing shoudl be about 2-3" longer than the zipper length and about 3" wide. Trim about 1/2" off from all inetrfacing edges as shown.
2/ Mark teh exact loction of teh zippetr directly on teh garment's wirght side using atilors chalk or a quilting pencil .
3. Transfer teh line to teh wrong side of the garmnet (at the same exact lcoation). Center and fuse the interfacing on this line as shown.
4. Mark the facing's center line . The easiest way to find and mark this line is to fold the facing in half lengthwise and iron the fold to mark a crease line. You can then use this crease to further mark it using a quilting pencil or tailors chalk.
5. Align the facing with the garment such that fabric right sides are touching the marked center lines align. Pin the facing layer to the garment in this position. Use the zipper as a guide to mark the bottom of the zipper opening- this location should correspond with the zipper's bottom stop.
6. To facilitate the stitching process later one, hand baste at about 1/4" on each side of the center line pivoting the stitch in a rectangular structure at the bottom. The hand basting marks the zipper's slot opening edges and will not only keep the layers perfectly aligned, it will also provide a guide to follow in the stitching process.
7. Starting from the top, stitch following the hand basted lines, pivoting the stitch along the right angles at the bottom and moving back up to complete the rectangular stitch .
8. Once stitched, remove the hand basting as it is no longer needed. Next, cut the garment and facing layers following the marked center line until you arrive at about 1/2" form the bottom horizontal stitch. At this point, cut into each corner as close as you can to the corner stitch but being careful not to accidentally cut it. This will create a triangle-shaped extension.
9. Flip the facing layer to the wrong side of the garment and iron the clean finished edges to expose a perfectly rectangular slot opening.
10. Center the closed-end zipper between this slot opening and insert a few pins to keep the zipper aligned. To ensure the zipper is stitched evenly on both sides, slip baste through the slot edges and zipper tape as shown above. Remove all pins once the zipper is slip basted.
11. Fold the bottom garment layer up, and stitch at the base of the triangle extension and facing layer underneath. Use a zipper presser foot to stitch right next to the existing stitch at the bottom of the triangle slot.
12. Next, peal each garment layer on each side to expose seam allowance and facing layer underneath, and machine stitch following the existing stitch using a zipper foot as shown above. Repeat on both sides of the zipper teeth.
13. Last but not least, remove the slip basting using a seam ripper to complete the zipper application.
For an extra decorative element, you can also add construct-color topstitching along all zipper sides.