Types Of Zippers Used In Dressmaking
Zippers are perhaps the most functional invention in dressmaking. Depending on the garment's design and zipper application technique, you can choose between a variety of zipper colors, lengths, materials and styles. While the color and materials options are countless, there are only three main zipper styles used in dressmaking. These three zippers can me stitched using a variety of different sewing techniques and specialize applications.
Closed-end regular zippers are the most widely used zipper style in dressmaking. As the name suggests, a closed-end conventional zipper opens to a stop point which is physically marked with a metal stop. These zipper cannot fully separate. Regular closed-end zipper are available in a variety of lengths and colors. They can be constructed of plastic coils or a metal chain. You should choose your zipper style based on zipper application, garment color and design and where the zipper is located on the garment.
Separating zippers are regular plastic coil or metal chain zippers that are able to fully separate. Instead of a bottom stop, these zippers have a slot that allows the tab to easily go on and off the zipper track. As is true for all zippers, separating zippers are available in a variety of colors and lengths. You might notice that most separating zippers on the market are available in a longer length since their primary use is along a full garment opening.
Naturally, separating zippers are utilized at garment closures that require the garment portions to fully separate for full functionality. The best example of course is a garment's front opening, particularly used with more casual cardigans, blazers, jackets and heavy duty garments.
Invisible zippers are closed-end clastic coil zippers that are constructed such that when closed the zipper tape hides the coils underneath (on the zipper's right side). Invisible zippers are always sewn into a seam, conventionally a side seam or the center back seam.
The reason they are called invisible is because when closed, they disappear into the seamline with only the tab visible at the top. If the zipper color matches the garment color perfectly, the tab should be more difficult to spot which creates a clean, hidden closures. Invisible zippers are commonly used with lighter garment such as dresses and blouses as they provide a functional yet dainty, non-compromising finish.