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      • Sewing Unique Fabric Seams
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      • Seam Finishing Techniques - Overview
      • Applying A Pinked Seam Finish
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      • Sewing A French Seam Finish
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      • Sewing A Mock French Seam Finish
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      • ​Sewing A Double Fold Hem Finish
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      • Sewing A Twill Tape Hem Finish
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      • Using Fusible Hem Tape And Webbing
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      • Sewing Faced Hem Corners
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How To Draft Slash Pocket Patterns Using The Pocket Opening Measurements

Picture
When sewing slash pockets, ​you can use the pocket's opening measurements to draft all necessary pocket patterns such as the welts, flap, and pocket bag layers. 
Picture
To start with, it is important to define the exact pocket opening lines. In the image above, the pocket opening is 4" x 1".  Regardless of whether your slash pocket is a single or double welt, it is helpful to consider the center line that splits the welt pocket lengthwise in half. 
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Given the pocket opening measurements of 4" x 1", the pocket bag pieces are always drafted at 1" wider than the pocket opening. If the pocket opening is 4" wide, the pocket bag pieces should be 5" wide.

If sewing a bound pocket application which uses the longer pocket bag to form the pocket's opening's welts, the longer pocket piece should measure the desired pocket depth (4.5" in this example) plus an additional 3.5".

​The short pocket bag piece should measure the desired pocket depth (4.5" in this example) plus an additional 1.5". The pocket depth is based on how long you'd like the pocket bag to be. ​
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The measurements specified above include a standard 1/2" seam allowance along all edges of both pattern pieces. When drafting your patterns, be sure to mark the half-inch seam allowance along each edge. Don't forget to note a grainline and pattern identifying name for future reference (ex: Bound Pocket- Large pocket piece).

​You can now use and re-use these simple sewing patterns to construct a double-welt bound slash pocket from any fabric of your choice. 
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When sewing a welt pocket with flap, additional to the pocket bag pieces, you will also need to draft the flap and welt patterns. 

Assuming the pocket opening is 4" x 1" again, use the following conventions: 

The flap pattern should be 1" wider than the pocket opening and as long as desired (conventionally, 2"-3"). Add 1" to account for two 1/2" seam allowances along the top and bottom edges.  The final flap pattern measurements in this case will be 5" wide by 3" long which also includes all necessary seam allowances.

To draft a curved bottom flap, simply draw a 5"x 3" rectangle and curve its bottom corners. Keep in mind that the seam allowance is already accounted for in the 5x3 measurement so all you have to do is mark the seamline within the rectangular lines as shown above. 
The welt pattern is cut 1" longer than the pocket opening width (which is 4" in this case).

If the pocket opening will have two welts, the welt should measure the length of the entire pocket opening (1" in this case) plus an extra 1" to account for 1/2" seam allowances along the top and bottom edges. This is shown in the example above with the final welt pattern measuring 5"x 2" which includes the necessary 1/2" seam allowance along all edges. When cutting your pocket patterns you will need to cut two welt pieces. 

If the pocket features a single welt only, the welt should be double the entire pocket opening (1" in this case) plus 1" to account for seam allowance. In this case, the final welt pattern is a rectangle measuring 5" wide by 3" long (1"x2 plus the 1" seam allowance).

​In the construction process, you will only need to cut one welt piece. 
​
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In the finished pocket application, all pocket components should have an equal width so they all fit together evenly within the pocket opening. 
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Picture
In a self-welt pocket application, a single pocket piece is used to clean-finish both the pocket opening welt and the pocket bag. The pocket piece is drafted such that it is 1" wider than the pocket opening width. The length is double the pocket opening length (1" x2) plus double the desired pocket depth (in this case, 4.5" x2). Thus, if the pocket opening is 4" x 1", then the final pattern measurements are 5" x 11" accounting for 1/2" seam allowance along all edges. 
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The resulting pocket pattern will form a single welt that fully covers the pocket's opening. 
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If sewing irregularly-shaped welts, follow the same logic when drafting the welt sewing pattern. It is important that the width is at least 1" wider than the pocket opening, and the finished welt covers the pocket opening.
Picture
Picture
In the example above, the asymmetric welt is constructed individually, similar to a flap, by clean-finishing its side edges. The finished welt piece should fit perfectly within the pocket opening lines with both sides aligning within the pocket opening as shown above.
Picture
When the slash pocket is completed, the welt's finished sides should align perfectly with the corresponding pocket side edges such that it fully covers the slash opening. 

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  • Sewing Tutorials
    • Basics >
      • Aligning Pattern Grainlines To Fabric
      • Preparing Fabrics For Sewing
      • Pinning Sewing Patterns To Fabric
      • Placing Sewing Patterns On Fabric For Cutting
      • Rotary Cutters or Fabric Scissors?
      • Cutting The Sewing Patterns
      • What Are Notches And How To Use Them In The Sewing Process
      • Transferring Notches From Pattern To Fabric
      • Transferring Seamlines to Fabric
      • Staystitching
      • Backstitching: A Complete Guide
      • Hand Basting: A Complete Guide
      • Sewing Continuous Bias Binding
    • Darts >
      • Marking And Transferring Darts To Fabric
      • What Are Darts And Dart Components
      • Folding, Pinning And Hand Basting Darts
      • Handling Dart Excess: Bulk And Tension
      • How To Sew A French Dart
      • How To Sew And Iron Single Pointed Darts
      • How To Sew And Iron Contour Darts
      • Sewing Darts With Decorative/Beaded Fabrics
    • Sewing Seams >
      • ​The Basics Of Seams And Seam Allowance
      • How To Sew A Straight Seam
      • Sewing Curved Seams
      • Sewing Corner Seams
      • Trimming And Grading Seam Excess
      • Notching/Clipping Seam Allowance for Tension Release
      • Sewing Topstitched Seams
      • Sewing Corded Seams
      • Sewing A Slot Seam
      • Sewing A Gathered Seam
      • Sewing Bias Seams
      • Sewing Seams With Ease
      • Sewing Seams With Crossing Seamlines
      • Sewing Unlike Fabric Seams
      • How To Iron Seams: Ironing Tools And Conventions
      • Sewing With Knit Fabrics
      • Understanding Stitch Length And Tension
      • Sewing Unique Fabric Seams
    • Seam Finishes >
      • Seam Finishing Techniques - Overview
      • Applying A Pinked Seam Finish
      • Applying A Bias Bound Seam Finish
      • Serging And Zigzag Seam Finishes
      • Sewing A Self-Bound Seam Finish
      • Sewing A French Seam Finish
      • Sewing A Hong Kong Seam Finish
      • Sewing A Mock French Seam Finish
      • Sewing A Turned-and-Stitched Seam Finish
      • Sewing Overcast Hand-Applied Seam Finishes
      • Sewing A Flat Felled Seam
      • Sewing A Hairline Seam Finish
    • Hem Finishes >
      • Garment Hem Finishes: Overview
      • ​Sewing A Double Fold Hem Finish
      • Sewing A Single Fold Hem Finish
      • Sewing Bound Hem Finishes
      • Sewing An Exposed Double Layer Bound Hem
      • Sewing A Folded-Up Bound Hem with Pre-folded Binding
      • Sewing A Hong Kong Hem Finish
      • Sewing A Band Hem Finish
      • Sewing A Bias Faced Hem Finish
      • Sewing A Twill Tape Hem Finish
      • Sewing A Rolled Hem Finish
      • Sewing A Shaped Hem Facing
      • Using Fusible Hem Tape And Webbing
      • Finishing A Lace Fabric Hem
      • Finishing A Leather Hem
      • Sewing Faced Hem Corners
      • How To Finish Lining At The Hem
      • Finishing Fabric Corners by Mitering >
        • Mitering Fabric Corners With A Full Bias Facing
        • Mitering Fabric Corners With Exposed Binding
      • Interfacing A Hemline: Lined And Unlined Examples
    • Sewing Pockets >
      • Curved Patch Pocket With Flap
      • Unlined Square Patch Pockets
      • Lined Patch Pockets: Two Ways
      • Extension On-Seam Pockets
      • Separate On-Seam Pocket
      • Front Hip Pockets
      • Bound Double Welt Pocket
      • Double Welt Pocket With Flap
      • Self-Welt Pocket (Using Single Fabric Layer)
      • Slanted Welt Pocket (Hand-Stitched)
      • Faced Slash Pockets: Overview >
        • Sewing A Faced Slit Pocket
        • Sewing A Rectangular Slash Pocket
        • Sew A Star-Shaped Faced Pocket
    • Sewing Zippers >
      • Sewing Zippers: General Information
      • Sewing A Centered Zipper
      • Sewing A Lapped Zipper
      • Sewing An Invisible Zipper
      • Sewing A Fly Front Zipper
      • Sewing A Closed-End Exposed Zipper (No Seam)
      • Sewing An Exposed Separating Zipper
      • Sewing Hand Stitched Zipper Applications
      • Sewing A Zipper Underlay
      • Sewing A Placket-Enclosed Separating Zipper
    • Sleeveless Finishes >
      • Sleeveless Armhole Finishes: General Information
      • Finishing Sleeveless Garments with Lining
      • Sewing A Folded-Under Bound Armhole Finish
      • Sewing A Shaped Armhole Facing
      • Finishing Armhole Edges With Exposed Binding
      • Finishing Armhole Edges With Decorative Trim
    • Neckline Finishes >
      • Sewing A Neck Shaped Facing
      • Sewing An All-In-One Neck Facing
      • Neck And Garment Opening Combination Facings >
        • Sewing An Extended Front-Neck Facing
        • Sewing A Separate Neck-Front Facing
      • Sewing A Bias Faced Neckline Finish
      • Sewing A Band Neckline Finish
      • Bound Neckline Finishes: Overview >
        • Sewing A Single Layer Bound Neckline
        • Finishing A Neckline With Pre-Folded Binding
        • Sewing A Double Layer Bound Neckline Finish
      • Sewing A Semi-Stretch Strip Band Neckline
      • Ribbed Neck Band And Classic Turtleneck
      • Decorative Neckline Finishes >
        • Sewing A Neckline With Decorative Inset
        • Sewing A Piped Cording Faced Neckline
        • Sewing Decorative Trim To A Finished Neckline
    • Finishing Facing Edges >
      • Finishing Facing Edges: Overview
      • Folded-And-Topstitched Overedge Facing Finish
      • Sewing A Bound Facing Edge Finish
      • Sewing A Hong Kong Facing Finish
      • Sewing A Rolled Edge Facing Finish
      • Sewing A Twill Tape Facing Edge Finish
      • Sewing An Overedge-Stitch Facing Finish
    • Extras >
      • A Complete Guide on Interfacing
      • Sewing Bound Spaghetti Straps
      • Sewing Spaghetti Straps To A Faced Neckline
      • Sewing Ruffles: Overview
      • Patterning And Sewing A Circle Ruffle
      • Sewing A Gathered Heading Ruffle
      • Sewing Double Layer Gathered Ruffles
      • Sewing A Gathered Ruffle Into A Seam
      • Sewing A Gathered Ruffle To A Fabric Edge
      • Sewing A Fabric Surface Slit
      • Sewing A Slit Seam
      • Hand-Applied Straight Stitches
      • Hand-Applied Blind Stitches
      • Hand-Applied Overedge Stitches
      • Hand-Applied Tack Stitches
      • Hand-Applied Decorative Stitches
  • Custom Apparel
    • Custom Bridal
  • Submit A Sewing Question
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