What Is An Asymmetric/Slant Welt Pocket
A slant or asymmetric welt pocket is a slash pocket application taht has an irregularly-shaped welt at the pocket opening. Traditionally, pocket welts are rectangularly fitting perfectly into the pocket opening edges. A slant/asymmetric welt goes above the rectangular pocket opening and is traditionally, blind stitches at the sides to complete the pocket application.
In the sewing process, the welt is treated similar to a pocket flap- it is stitched and clean finished individually prior to being attached to the pocket opening. In a traditional welt pocket application, the individual welts are left unfinished on the sides and simply stitched into the sides of the slash pocket opening. With an asymmetric welt, much like a flap, the pocket sides have to be clean finished prior to attaching the welt to the slash pocket opening,
The welt is then aligned to the pocket opening similar to a flap. The welt's raw edges are facing inward, toward the pocket opening and the welt's finished sides should fit perfectly within the bounds of the finished pocket opening (as marked by the hand basting above). In a traditional application, the welt is aligned and stitched to the bottom pocket edge (or bottom pocket line marked with hand basting).
Once all pocket layers are moved to the wrong side of the garment to expose the clean finished pocket opening, the asymmetric welt will naturally flip up and cove the pocket opening. In this position, the taller portion of the welt should go above the rectangular pocket opening.
To complete the slanted welt application, the welt's finished sides are simply blind stitched to the garment layer underneath.