Bound Pocket Components and Measurements
A bound pocket is a slash pocket application that uses the longer pocket bag layer to form the pocket opening folds (welts). The pocket opening folds are the same fabric as the pocket bag layer closest to the garment thus you should choose your fabric carefully such that it works for both opening and pocket bag.
You can draft your own pattern set or dimply cut your pocket piece directly form the fabric using the measurement ratios and pocket components shown above. The pocket opening is marked with dash lines and measures 4" by 1". To sew a bound pocket, you will need two pocket pieces: A larger pocket pieces that is 1" wider than the pocket opening and .... inches longer than the desired pocket depth ..
Draft your sewing patterns and include mark the 1/2" seam allowance along all edge. This seam allowance is already built into the measurement above. Cut 1 piece of each pocket piece. The large pocket piece will be folded to serve as the pocket opening folds, while the shorter pocket piece will be used to complete the pocket bag on the wrong side of the application. It also helps to curve the bottom edge of each pocket piece as this will provide more clarity in the alignment process.
The large pocket piece is stitched to the slash pocket opening first. This layer is then folded form the bottom and top over the opening to create the pocket welt-like folds. During this process, the resulting folds should have an equal with and abut at the center of the pocket opening- for that reason, it helps to first check the folded edges on the right side of the application before securing them by ironing and a hand-applied temporary whipstitch (visible in the image below).
The functional bound pocket is completed by stitching the remaining smaller pocket piece to the one already attached to the garment. If the measurement ratios are followed correctly, the size of both pocket pieces should be identical and all outer edge should match perfectly.