Mini Tutorial: How to sew a separate on seam pocket
A separate on seam pocket is conventional on-seam pocket application taht is constructed of separate pieces comprising the pocket bag. These pocket pieces, usually 1 for the front and a second for the back, are cut separately and stitched to each corresponding seam edge.
Start by cutting the two pocket pieces comprising the pocket bag. One pocket piece corresponds to the front the other the back. Sewing patterns should be provided in your pattern set and marked with notches matching those on the garment seam edges housing the pocket. Conventionally, there should be a notch at each corner of the pocket opening to direct you when to start and stop the stitching in order to form the pocket opening.
1. Start by aligning the front pocket layer to the garnet's front seam edge with fabric afce sides touching. Match all corresponding notches and insert pins perpendicular to the edges to secure the layers together.
2. Machine stitch the pocket piece to the seam edge at the seam's designated seam allowance - 1/2" in this example. Remove each pin as you approach it - you should never stitch directly on top of the pins.
3. Apply an overedge stitch like serging or zigzag along the pocket length to finish the seam allowance edges.
4. Iron the seam with the pocket layer and all seam allowances pointing away form the garment (toward the pocket layer).
5. Stitch the pocket piece and all seam allowance layers underneath next to the seamline. This is called understitching and will keep the pocket bag facing inward, preventing it from rolling toward the outside of the finished pocket.
6. Next, align the second pocket piece to the garment's back seam edge with face sides touching. Insert pins perpendicularly to secure.
7. Machine stitch the back pocket back at the 1/2" seam allowance, or whatever your designated seam allowance is.
8. Again, clean finish the seam allowance at the pocket portion with a zigzag or serging stitch and iron the pocket layer away from the garment portion as shown above.
9. Align the front and back seam edges with face sides touching such that the pocket piece edges and the rest of the top and bottom seam edges align. Insert pins perpendicular along all matching edges, including the pocket bag.
10. For extra stability in the machine stitching process, it helps to hand baste the pocket bag layers together as shown.
11. Starting at the top, stitch the seam until you arrive at the top pocket corner marl (top notch). Backstitch at the end of the stitch to reinforce the top pocket opening.
12. Starting at the bottom pocket notch marking the bottom pocket opening corner, backstitch then stitch down to the garment's hem to complete the seam.
13. To complete the pocket bag, stitch along its curved outer edge, applying the stitch smoothly and evenly along the curved-most edge. You'll find that the hand basting plays an important role in providing comfort and stability during this process. Start and end the pocket bag stitch into the seam allowance layers.
14. Clean finish the seam and pocket bag raw edges using the technique of your choice. In this case the raw edges are encased with a serging stitch.
15. Last but not least, complete the on-seam pocket by ironing the seam allowance and pocket bag toward the front of the garment. You'll find it easiest to iron form the seam's right side as this will provide most control.