How To Stabilize The Opening Edges Of An Extension On-Seam Pocket

When sewing extension on-seam pockets, the pocket bag portions are built into the garment pieces comprising the seam. This means that instead of a separate pocket bag being stitched into the seam, the pocket pieces are built in as extensions and simply folded in to create the pocket bag and respectively, its opening along the seam.

With the lack of seams at the pocket opening, the folded edges will often become weak and stretch out of shape with continuous use. This is particularly true for the front pocket edge which requires added strength and stability. ​

To strengthen the front pocket opening edge, it helps to reinforce it with a strip of twill tape. The tape is applied on the pocket layer's wrong side before aligning and stitching the pocket bag.

The addition of the twill tape will stabilize the front opening edge thus preventing it from ripping and/or over-stretching with the pocket's continuous use. 

To start with, simply cut a piece of twill tape measuring a little over the length of the pocket opening (1"-2"), and align it to the wrong side of the front pocket layer. The body of the twill tape should be positioned within the pocket bag while its edge should align with the pocket opening fold. In the finished application, the tape edge closest to the seamline will back the pocket's front opening edge. ​

​Insert pins horizontally to secure the twill tape to the pocket layer. 

To attach the twill tape, stitch along the edge overlapping the pocket bag portion as pictured above. While topstitching, remove each pin as you approach it.

​In the finished pocket application, the pocket's front folded edge will naturally, enclose the twill tape.