Mini Tutorial: How To Sew A Curved Patch Pocket With Extended Lining
An extended lining patch pocket is a shortcut to the traditional separate lining construction. A conventional lined patch pocket is constructed of two separate pieces: 1 is the pocket self, the other is the lining layer. A patch pocket constructed of extended lining is has the lining layer built into the pocket piece. In this case, the single pocket layer is folded mid way to serve both as the lining and pocket self. The pocket opening edge corresponds to the fold line. That being said, keep in mind in this application, the lining is naturally the same fabric as the pocket piece thus you should use this technique with fabrics that do not become too thick or bulky when folded.
1. Start by cutting your pocket piece. If you are working with a sewing pattern, cut 1 single layer of the pattern. If you do not have a pattern, you can simply measure and draw the pocket outline (include seam allowances) directly on the the fabric and cut along the marked line.
2. Fold the pocket piece in half with face sides touching and all pocket bottom edges aligning as shown.
3. Insert pins perpendicular to the edges to keep them aligned in this position. The perpendicular pin placement is important as it will help you remove each pin much faster and safer during the machine stitching process below.
4. Starting from the bottom center, start stitching along the fabric raw edges until you arrive at the top folded edge. Next, stitch the other side of the pocket in the same manner, leaving about 1" to 1.5" of unstitched space at the bottom. This gap will help you turn the lined pocket piece on its face side.
5. To minimize bulk. trim the seam allowance down (of needed) to about 1/4"-3/8". Trim the top two corners diagonally as shown. To minimize tension and encourage the finished curved edge to lay flat and smooth, clip wedge notches along the curved bottom seam allowance layers.
6. Turn the pocket piece on its right side through the 1" opening gap.
7. Bring the edges out and iron them flat along the entire pocket piece.
8. Using a slipstitch, seal the bottom gap, alternating the stitches form fold to fold for an invisible stitch application ( blind stitching).
9. Mark the outline of the patch pocket directly on the face of the garment layer at the desired pocket location. In this tutorial, a hand basting stitch is used to mark these lines- you can use tailors chalk or a quilting pencil as long as it is safe and easy to remove once the patch pocket is permanently attached.
10. Align the lined patch pocket within the parked line sand pin it perpendicularly in place. In lieu of pins, you can use hand basting stitch to ensure the the pocket layers do not shift out of alignment in the topstitching process.
11. Starting at one of the top corners, topstitch along the pocket's edge until you arrive at the other opening corner. Backstitch at both beginning and end of the stitch to ensure a durable connection at the pocket opening.
13. Since the pocket opening sustains most of the pressure and weight during use, it is important to further reinforce each corner with a tack or some whipstitching as shown above. Stitch through both the pocket and garment layer underneath until the stitch is full and secure enough to work with the patch pocket application.
The finished lined patch pocket should be topstitched evenly along all edges and both of its top opening corners should be reinforced with a tack or whipstitching for extra strength and curability throughout the pocket's lifespan.