Mini Tutorial: How To Sew Lined Curved Patch Pockets With Separate Lining
A line patch pocket is a beautifully tailored pocket that uses a an identically's shaped lining layer to enclose all the pocket's raw edges. It if up tp you what fabric you use for the lining, whether it is matching or contrasting, as long as it does not add too much thickness and bulk to the final pocket application.
1. Start by cutting two identical pocket pieces: 1 for the pocket self (the outer pocket layer), and 1 for the lining. If you are working with a sewing pattern, cut the two pieces such that their face sides mirror each other, using the same pattern. If you don't have a pattern, mark the pocket lines directly on the fabric and cut the two identical pieces using these marks.
2. To ensure that lining is enclosed on the wrong side of the pocket in the finished application, trim about 1/16" along all edges of the lining (you'll see why later).
3. Align the lining layer to the pocket self with fabric face sides touching and all edges aligning. Given that the lining was trimmed slightly, you'll find that it may be a bit unnatural to align the edges. You'll have to almost "force them" together and not pay too much attention to the body of the pocket bag.
4. Starting at the bottom center, start stitching along the edge at the designated seam allowance- 1/2" in this case. Continue stitching along all edge, pivoting the stitch at each corner. Stop your stitch at about 1-1.5" away form the beginning of the stitch. It is recommended that you backstitch at both beginning and end of the stitch. The open gap will be used to turn the pocket on its face side thus enclose all raw edges.
5. To minimize bulk and tension, trim the seam allowance down to about 1/4" and trim diagonally at each top corner.
6. If your patch pocket has a curved bottom edge, clip wedge notches into the occurred portion. These notches will ensure the curved edge is smooth and flat preventing tension in the finished edge.
7. Turn the pocket piece on it's right side though the open gap at the bottom.
8. Bring all finished edges out and iron them to smooth and flatten them.
9. Close the pocket gap using a hand-applied slipstitch. This slipstitch should connect the two folded edges leaving no visible stitches on along the pocket's finished edge.
10. Mark an outline of your pocket at the desired location in the garment and following the exact shape of the pocket. You can use tailor's chalk or a hand basting stitch as shown above- as long as you can easily and safely remove it once the pocket is complete.
11. Align the lined pocket bag within the marked lines. Pin or hand baste the pocket to the garment surface underneath. Hand basting is a great tool to use for added security and ensuring the pocket doesn't shift out of place in the topstitching process.
12. Starting at one of the top opening corners, backstitch then continue topstitching along the pocket edge until you arrive at the other pocket opening corner. Backstitch at the end of the stitch to ensure durable pocket opening.
For a an extra decorative element, you can add a second row of topstitching next to the initial one applied in the step above. To complete the patch pocket application, apply a tack at each pocket opening corner to reinforce these two areas. Since most often weight falls on the pocket opening, reinforcing the corners will ensure a durable application throughout the pocket's lifespan. In terms of tacks, you can use a simple hand-applied whipstitch or bar tack (shown above).