A Technique For Clean-Finishing A Patch Pocket's Opening Edge: Light To Medium Weight Fabrics
A built in extension is the best way to clean-finish a patch pocket's opening edge. This extension is folded onto itself to form a self-facing which results in a finish with no topstitching visible on the pocket's right side.
In the example below, the patch pocket has a built-in top extension of 2.5". This extra length is added at the top of the pocket layer.
Here is a variation of this technique used when sewing patch pockets with lightweight or medium weight fabrics:
In the example below, the patch pocket has a built-in top extension of 2.5". This extra length is added at the top of the pocket layer.
Here is a variation of this technique used when sewing patch pockets with lightweight or medium weight fabrics:
1. Fold the pocket piece's top edge at 1/4" toward the fabric's wrong side and iron the fold to crease.
2. Next, fold the edge one more time at 1/4" to encase the fabric raw edge. Iron and insert pins perpendicular to secure this double fold.
3. Topstitch the double fold following the inner (open) folded edge as a guide.
4. Fold the extension toward the pocket's right side at the extension's remaining width.
The initial extension width was 2.5", and since 1/2" of this total measurement was folded and topstitched (in a double fold), the remaining width is 2".
Insert pins perpendicular to the edges at each end of the extension as pictured above.
The initial extension width was 2.5", and since 1/2" of this total measurement was folded and topstitched (in a double fold), the remaining width is 2".
Insert pins perpendicular to the edges at each end of the extension as pictured above.
5. Stitch each end at the designated seam allowance- in this case, the seam allowance is 1/2".
It is highly recommended that you backstitch at the beginning and end of each stitch to provide extra stability and durability in the steps to follow.
It is highly recommended that you backstitch at the beginning and end of each stitch to provide extra stability and durability in the steps to follow.
6. To remove some of the extra thickness at the finished corners and ensure a well-defined edge, trim the seam allowance diagonally as shown above.
7. To expose the clean-finished pocket corners, flip the pocket extension toward the pocket's wrong side. Iron the resulting edge to smooth and flatten it.
The finished patch pocket should have no raw edges visible anywhere along its opening, especially at the corners.
The self-finishing extension keeps the edges fully enclosed without any risk of fraying at the corners. This technique also provides a nice tailored finish to the overall pocket structure.
The self-finishing extension keeps the edges fully enclosed without any risk of fraying at the corners. This technique also provides a nice tailored finish to the overall pocket structure.