Mini Tutorial: Sewing Lining At The Hem By Machine
Sewing lining at the hem by machine is quite simple in its construction, but the alignment process can feel a bit confusing to sewing beginners. As you'll see below, the essential rule to follow in the process is that fabric face sides should always be touching in the alignment process.
1. Start by folding the garment hem allowance toward the garment's wrong side. If your hemline is not marked directly on the fabric, use a ruler or gage pointer to measure the exact width of the hem allowance.
2. Iron the hemline as you fold to crease the finished hem.
3. If the lining layer is exactly the same length as the garment, you will have to trim it down to a shorter length. Trim the lining's hem allowance down to 1". In this instance, it helps to have the hemline marked directly on the lining layer then measuring 1" down from the hemline and marking a new line. Cut carefully along this new cut line.
4. From one of the garment opening corners, align the lining's hem allowance edge to that of the garment with face sides touching and inset pins perpendicular to the edge to secure. This process may feel a bit uncomfortable and confusing at first but if you adhere to the role of matching face sides touching and start on one end following the alignment through, you'll find that the process is quite intuitive. Pin to about halfway through the hem.
5. Machine stitch the hem allowance edges together at 1/2" allowance until you reach the midpoint where the pins end. Backstitch at the end of the stitch.
When you turn the lining on its face side, half of the lining should be clean finished, the other half should not.
6. Repeat the alignment and pining process on the open end of the lining. Leaving a gap of about 5-6" from the stitched end.
7. Starting at the gap, backstitch and machine stitch the edges together at 1/2" hem allowance up to the garment opening.
8. Flip the lining back on its right side. As a result, you should have an open gap at the hem's mid point. This gap's purpose it to allow flipping the lining layers back on their right side once fully sealed.
9. Fold the lining gap edge in at 1/2" and iron the fold to crease.
10. To fully seal the lining, Slipstitch the folded lining edge to the hem allowance layer underneath, aligning the open gap in line with the rest of the stitched lining.
11. Once the lining is fully stitched, fold it over the hem allowance and iron the lining fold gently to secure it in this position.
12. Last nu not least, secure the hem allowance layer at each seamline using a cross tack (or a plain whipstitch). The cross tack should be applied right underneath the lining stitch , only through the hem allowance and seam allowance layers between the fold- no stitching should be visible on the face of the garment.
The finished, machine stitch lining should have no visible stitching both on the right and wrong side of the garment. The lining's natural fold should sit about 3/4" up from the finished hemline serves an important role in the lining's functionality. The fold allows enough excess in the lining layer to move with the garment without causing any pulling or tension.