Three Ways To Finish Lining At The Hem

In the world of sewing lining, the trickiest aspect is selling the lining layer at the garment hemline. Regardless of your garment design and lining technique, the lining should have enough movement on the wrong side of the garment such that it creates no tension, and not be so long that it peeks out from the finished hemline edge.

there are three basic techniques you can use to clean finish lining at the hem- your choice should be made based on the garment design, hem length and type of fabric being used.

The most basic lining application is completed by hand using a blind stitching application. Conventionally a slip stitch is used to connect the lining layer to the garments hem allowance layer such that no stitching is visible on the face of the garment. This is perhaps the easier application for sewing beginners since the alignment process is more straightforward and easy to follow.

When the lining layer is folded down in its final, natural position, the hand applied stitching is hidden underneath the folded layers for a stitch-free, clean finish.

A faster way to connect the lining layer to the garment is with a simple machine stitch. This technique can sometimes feel confusing to sewing beginners but once you get the hang of it, it is much faster than the hand applied version.

In the application process, the lining hem allowance edge is aligned with that of the garment with fabric face sides touching. It is easiest to align each side of the hemline at a time leaving 5-6 “ gap in between. This gap will help you flip the the garment layers to their right side.

Once both sides of the hem are stitched, there should be a small open gap along the hem. This gap will need to be sealed/closed to finalize the lining application.

To seal the open lining gap, slip stitch the lining to the hem allowance layer underneath. There should be no visible stitching on the face of the garment. When the lining folds over the hem allowance in its natural position, the stitch will be hidden underneath, disappearing on the wrong side of the garment also.

Lining can also be finished in a free hanging style. With this technique, the lining and garment hems are finished separately, hanging separately form each other.  This technique is often used with light weight, drapey garments like loose topes and dresses. A free-hanging lining will provide more movement and prevent tension in the finished hem. 

To keep the lining layer underneath permanently aligned as needed, a french tack is used at the side seams. French tacks can be constructed by hand using a blanket-like stitch that forms a chain. This chain should be about 1"-1.5" long to allow for enough movement and flexibility for the lining on the wrong side of the garment while still keeping it properly aligned.