Mini Tutorial: How To Finish Lining At The Hem By Hand
As a sewing beginner, you may find it easier to finish lining at the hem by hand. A hand application, while more consuming, will provide more clarity on the correct alignment process. Here’s a way to seal the lining layer at the garment hem by hand:
1. If your lining layer is as long as the garment layer (same patterns were used to cut the layers), trim the lining hem allowance down to 1 “ width. Measure and mark the new line with tailors chalk or fabric pencil, and cut along this new cut line.
2. Start by folding and ironing the garment layer hem allowance. In this case the hem allowance is 1.5” wide.
3. Blind stitch the hem allowance edge to the garment layer underneath using a slip stitch or hemming stitch.
4. Next, fold the lining hem allowance by 1/2” toward the wrong side of the garment and iron the fold to crease- this process will save time and facilitate the final alignment and hand stitching process below.
5. With the garment on its wrong side, align the raw edge of the lining hem allowance to that on the garment and insert pins perpendicular to secure the layers in this position. All raw edges should be encased between the lining and garment layer.
6. To seal the lining layer, slip stitch the lining to the garments hem allowance layer underneath. To slip stitch, insert a stitch through the lining fold then catch 2-3 threads from the garments layer underneath.
There should be no visible stitching on the garments face side.
Last but not least, bring the lining layer over the slipstitched edges and gently iron the fold created the natural lining fold created at the bottom. The lining should not be visible from the face of the hemline and all hand stitching should be hidden underneath this final fold.