Basic rules and conventions for trimming and finishing lining at the hem
Sewing lining is a fairly straightforward process until you arrive at the garments hemline. When finishing lining at the hem, the goal is to strike the perfect balance between lining length and tension free application. If the lining patterns are not provided with your patterns set, you can use the main garment patterns to cut your lining pieces- the only thing you’ll have to adjust is the lining length to fit perfectly with the garments natural hemline.
If the lining and garment layers are identical and exactly the same length (same sewing patterns were used to cut both), you’ll have to trim the lining layer to 1” hem allowance. For this process, it helps to transfer the hemline directly on the lining layer so you can follow it as a guide in the adjustment process. Simply measure 1” down from the hemline with a ruler or gage pointer and mark this new cut line with tailors chalk or a quilting pencil. Cut down this line to readjust the final lining layer.
To achieve the perfect balance between the lining layer and the garment (at the hem), the unfinished lining layer should hang 1 “ down from the garments finished hemline as shown above. Following this simple rule will provide the perfect lining finish featuring enough movement but not allowing it to peek at the garments hem when finished.
The finished lining layer should gently fold over the hem allowance layers, but have enough distance from the garment finished hemline such that it is not visible from the garments face side.
To keep the lining flat and minimize thickness and bulk on the inside of the garment, gently iron the finished lining layer over the hem allowance layer. Don’t press too much- a gently fold will provide more flexibly in the finished garment, especially during movement.
The stitch that attaches the lining to the garment should not be visible on the garments right side. While you can machine stitch the hem allowance of the garment to that of the lining, a hand applied blind stitch can also be used.
The garment hem allowance is first blind stitched using a hemming stitch or a slip stitch. These hand applied blind stitches leave no visible stitching on the face of the garment. The lining is then aligned with the raw hem allowance matching that of the garment and slip stitched to the hem allowance layer underneath to seal all ra edges.
Is sewing free hanging lining and the lining layer is identical in length to the garment layer, trim all h allowance off the lining layer. Once The lining hem is clean finished, it will be positioned perfectly in relation to the finished garment hem .
When sewing free hanging lining, use French tacks at the matching seam lines to keep the lining layer positioned accurately on the wrong side of the garment while providing enough ease for movement.
A fast way to clean finish lining at the hem is by using machine stitch. In this instance, it is easiest to align the garment layer to the lining layer one side at a time.
Once stitched, the two sides of the hem are brought back to the face side through a 5-6” gap that is left unstitched.
The open gap is then slip stitched to the hem allowance layer underneath to close it with a blind stitch application, leaving no visible stitching on the garments right side.