How To Finish A Garment's Hem With Fusible Hem Tape
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A fusible hem tape is a strip of adhesive that, when heated with an iron, bonds fabric layers together. You can purchase pre-packaged hem tape in a few different widths from your local fabric store.
Hem tape is a quick and easy no-sew hemming technique often used with structured or single use garments. The best hemming technique to use with fusible hem tape is a double folded style which hides both the hem allowance raw edge and the hem tape in between the folded layers.
Hem tape is a quick and easy no-sew hemming technique often used with structured or single use garments. The best hemming technique to use with fusible hem tape is a double folded style which hides both the hem allowance raw edge and the hem tape in between the folded layers.
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1. Start by pre-folding the garment's hem allowance in a double-fold style.
A classic double-fold hem is folded once at 1/4" width, then again at the remaining hem allowance width to encase the fabric's raw edge. The second fold should correspond to the garment's finished hemline. For increased stability in the steps to follow, the folded layers are ironed prior to applying the hem tape.
Gently insert the hem tape between the folded hem allowance layers and iron at even points along the folded hem. This is called iron basting and its purpose is to bond the hem tape at a few distinct points to keep it perfectly aligned when bonding the entire hemline.
A classic double-fold hem is folded once at 1/4" width, then again at the remaining hem allowance width to encase the fabric's raw edge. The second fold should correspond to the garment's finished hemline. For increased stability in the steps to follow, the folded layers are ironed prior to applying the hem tape.
Gently insert the hem tape between the folded hem allowance layers and iron at even points along the folded hem. This is called iron basting and its purpose is to bond the hem tape at a few distinct points to keep it perfectly aligned when bonding the entire hemline.
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2. Next, place a slightly damp piece of cotton fabric on top of the folded layers, and press the hot iron over the garment's hem, holding the iron a few seconds at each location. The cotton cloth is used as a barrier between the iron plate and fabric layers.
For this portion, it is important to review the hem tape's package instructions as these will indicate how long to hold the iron over the hem to securely bond the fabric layers.
For this portion, it is important to review the hem tape's package instructions as these will indicate how long to hold the iron over the hem to securely bond the fabric layers.
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Keep in mind that most hem tapes are, technically, a strip of solidified adhesive. For that reason it is important to handle them gently in the application process. Pulling too hard will, naturally, rip them very easily making the application process a bit messy.
