Mini Tutorial: How To Sew A Single Fold Hem Finish
In a single fold hem finish, the hem allowance os folded up towards the garment's wrong side once and either machine stitched (topstitched) as shown above a or hand stitched with blind hemming application for no visible stitching on the right side of the garment.
1. Prior to folding the hem allowance, apply an overedge stitch like serging or zigzag (on your home sewing machine) to the hem's raw. Since this edge will be left exposed on the wrong side of the garment, encasing the fabric edge will prevent it form fraying as well provide a more professional, clan look.
2. Fold the hem allowance towards the wrong side of the garment and iron as you fold to crease the hemline. Insert pins perpendicular to the edge to keep the folded layers secure during the stitching process. To ensure that the edge is folded evenly throughout use a gage pointer or ruler to measure the fold along the hemline. It may also help to transfer the hemline directly on the the wrong side of the fabrics so it can be used as a guide in the folding process.
Inserting the pins perpendicular to the edge with the ball point facing outward will ensure a safe and fast machine stitching process, allowing you to comfortably remove the pins as you stitch.
If you are working with flimsy fabrics taht do not take well to ironing and creasing, you may find it more comfortable to secure the folded layers with a temporary hand basting stitch. The stitch will keep the folded layer smooth and flat as they feed through the machine's presser foot. Using hand basting is especially helpful if you are a sewing beginner and not quite comfortable with your sewing machine yet.
3. To complete the single fold hem by machine, stitch t along the fabric edge using a the line on the serging or zigzag stitch as a guide. Remove each pin as you approach it and never stitch directly on top of the pins. Stitching form the wrong side of the hem will result in a smooth and even topstitching application on the hem's right side since the fabric edge provides a convenient stitching guide.
4. To complete the topstitched hem, iron the finished application, preferably in the direction the stitch was applied. Doing so will smooth out the stitch and flatten the folded layers.
5. To complete the single fold hem by hand, use blind hemming stitch to connect the hem allowance edge to the garment surface underneath. Stitch on the inside of the folded then catch 1-2 threads from the garment surface at the top. Continue stitching moving towards the left until the single fold hem is complete.
With ha blind hemming application, no stitching should be visible on face or wrong side of the hem. This finish is considered a more elegant, high quality application.