Two Ways To Complete A Simple Single Fold Hem Finish

A single fold hem is achieved by simply folding the hem allowance toward the inside of the garment once, then permanently securing it either by hand or by machine. Here is how to apply each one of these two techniques:

The easiest way to complete a single fold application by hand is with a blind hemming stitch. In preparation for applying the stitch, clean-finish the hem allowance edge and fold it toward the wrong side of the garment (at the designated hem allowance). For added comfort during the hand stitching process, iron as you fold to crease the hemline. It also helps to secure the single fold layers with a few pins.

To apply the blind hemming stitch, catch a stitch from the inside of the hem allowance edge then another one through 1-2 threads on the garment surface. Keep alternating these two stitches applying each one to the left of the preceding one. 

The blind stitches should create a v-shaped pattern between the folded layers (as pictured above), and keep the folded edge flush against the garment surface along the entire hem length. 

A correctly-applied blind hemming application should disappear between the folded layers, with no stitching visible both on the right and wrong side of the garment. A hand-applied blind stitch results in a high quality, more elegant application. 

The simplest way to complete a single fold hem is by machine using a topstitch application. Before applying the topstitching, be sure to clean-finish the hem allowance raw edge with sergeing or a zigzag stitch, and fold it at the designated hem allowance width. Iron as you fold and insert pins perpendicular to the edge to secure the folded layers. 

Working from the wrong side of the garment, stitch along the open hem allowance edge, following the serging or zigzag line as a guide. The perpendicularly positioned pins should be fast and easy to remove as you approach them in the stitching process.

Note: It is extremely important not to stitch directly through the pins or you risk breaking your machine needle or even hurting yourself in the process. 

Having a line to follow as a stitching guide will ensure that the final topstitch is applied evenly and smoothly on the face of the garment. This is why it is important to topstitch from the wrong side of the folded hem, as it not only ensures an evenly-positioned stitch, the folded edge is securely enclosed throughout the application- if you topstitch from the hem's right side, you run the risk of missing the open edge (located on the garment's wrong side) and stitching above it instead of through it.