What Is A Single Fold Hem Finish?

A single fold hem is a hemming technique that entails folding the garment's hem allowance toward the garment's wrong side once such that the fold created corresponds to the garment's finished hemline. The hem allowance layer is then secured with either a topstitch application, which is visible on the face of the garment, or a blind hemming stitch that results in no visible stitches on the right side of the application.

Since the hem allowance is only folded once, it is important to encase the fabric raw edge with an overedge stitch like serging or zigzag. Doing so will prevent the raw fabric edge from fraying throughout the garment's life cycle while also providing a more professional, clean finish. It is best to apply the overedge stitch prior to folding and stitching the final application.

Due to its simplicity, a single fold hem is the most widely-used hemming technique in dressmaking.

The garment's hem is folded at the designated hem allowance width using a gage pointer or a ruler. The fold is applied accurately by measuring at even points along the hem's length. 

​It is common, and recommended, for sewing beginners to transfer the hemline directly onto the fabric pieces as this will ensure a more accurate folding process.

Ironing as you fold is a convenient technique to keep the edge securely creased once folded and measured.