Mini Tutorial: How To Sew A Folded-Up Bound Hem Using Pre-Packaged Binding
The difference between an exposed binding application and a folded one is taht that in the latter, the hem is folded up to enclose the bound edge on the wrong side of the garment. As opposed to an exposed bound finish which simply encloses the hemline's raw edge with the binding, in a folded-up application, the garment requires hem allowance to indicate the amount by which to fold the hem's edge resulting in a fold line corresponding to the garment's hemline.
1. Start by aligning and pinning the double fold pre-packaged binding as you would with any exposed binding application. Insert the hem allowance raw edge through the slot created by the double fold binding and pin all layers as you align. Fold and overlap one of the binding ends over the other, aligning the binding end fold with one of the seams crossing into the hem.
2. It is highly recommended that you hand baste the double fold binding to secure the layers prior to machine stitching. Doing so is extremely helpful when working with difficult-to-control fabrics or very narrow binding such as is used in this example.
3. To attach and seal the binding, topstitch it from the garment's right side, following the binding's inner fold as a guide. Stitch next to the binding's fold, applying the stitch evenly throughout. Remove the basting with a seam ripper once the stitch is complete.
4. Fold the the bound edge at the designated hem allowance and iron as you fold. Insert pins perpendicular to the edge for easy removal during the stitching process to follow. If your hemline is not directly marked on your garment, use a gage pointer or ruler to measure and fold the hem allowance accurately and evenly throughout.
5. To complete the folded up hem by machine, stitch the folded fabric layers form the garment's wrong side following the binding as a guide. Follow the same location on the binding to achieve an evenly distributed, smooth stitch. Remove each pin as you approach it.
The final hemline will have a topstitch visible on the garment face side thus providing a more casual, fast application.
To complete the folded up hem by hand, use a slipstitch to connect the edge of the binding to the garment surface. Take a short stitch through the binding edge then another stitch through 1-2 threads on the wrong side of the garment. Continue alternating these two stitches to complete the slipstitch application.
On the face side of the garment, the slipstitch provides an invisible finish with no visible stitches. A slipstitch falls in the blind stitch category resulting in an application with no stitching visible in both the wrong and right side of the garment. A hand-applied blind stitched hem is considered a more elegant, less casual look often used with tailored style and evening wear.