Mini Tutrial: Sewing a double fold pre-packaged exposed bound hem
Follow the steps below to align and topstitch a double folded pre-packaged binding to a garment's unfinished hem.
1. Insert the hem's raw edge in the slot created by the double fold binding such that the end of the binding is aligned about 1/2" past one of the seams crossing into the hem (usually a side seam). If you take a closer look at your pre-packaged double fold binding, you will notice that one of the edges or layers i a bit longer- place this longer layer underneath, corresponding to the wrong side of the garment as shown above. Insert a pin at this location to secure the layers.
2. Continue to align and pin the double fold binding to the garment hem until you arrive at the binding's starting point. If your binding is narrow like in this tutorial (1/4" binding), insert the pins parallel to the edge for better grip.
3. Trim the binding excess and fold about 1/2" at the binding's open end. Place the folded edge over the other unfolded binding end (beginning) such that the binding fold line aligned with the seamline. This lineal alignment will ensure a clean professional finish in the final bound hem application.
4. Prior to topstitching, it is highly recommended that you use a hand basting stitch in lieu of pins to keep all layers perfectly secure and aligned in the machine stitching process to follow. Doing so is especially helpful when working with narrow binding which naturally has less surface area to encase the fabric edge this causing it to shift out of the folded slot.
5. Working from the garment's right side, topstitch the binding following the inner (open) fold as a guide. In the process, the other open edge of the binding underneath will naturally be caught by the stitch to permanently seal and encase the hemline.
6. To give the topstitched binding a clean, professional finish, iron the finished binding application in the direction the topstitching was applied.