Using A Crosswise Fabric Fold In The Pattern Cutting Process
A crosswise fabric fold is not as commonly used in the pattern cutting process. This is do the drape, durability and structure of the fabric's crosswise threads. Depending on the fabric, The crosswise grain does not always provide the most optimal fit and drape. Nevertheless, there are instances when you'll find yourself having to cut some of your sewing patterns on the crosswise grain.
When working with extra wide double-cut patterns or you don't have enough fabric left to cut the rest of your patterns lengthwise, a crosswise fabric fold should come in handy. In some instances, you may choose to fold your fabric on the crosswise grain and actually shift your patterns to be cut on the crosswise when a specific direction of the fabric print or motif is desired in the finished garment. You should be mindful of fabrics that have a directional nap as well as fabrics featuring a satin sheen that catch the light differently across different grains. Another instance you may choose to cut your double-cut patterns using a crosswise fold is when trying to avoid extensive wrinkling in the finished garment. Some fabrics, such as silk satin for example, can retain heavier wrinkling if cut on the conventional lengthwise grain. Use your best judgement and test the fabric visually before making a decision on whether to cut your patterns on a crosswise grain using a crosswise fold.
A crosswise fabric fold entails that the fabric is folded such that each selvage edges folds onto itself. When working with flimsy light fabrics, a crosswise fold can be a bit more difficult to handle since that crosswise threads don't respond as naturally to folds as the lengthwise grain does. Nevertheless, this is a useful folding style regardless of whether you are cutting your pattern on the lengthwise grain or crosswise grain. In the image above, the pattern's grainline is aligned lengthwise parallel to the selvage edge even if the fabric is folded on the crosswise grain. If you are short on fabric, you can shift the pattern perpendicular to the selvage edge in which case the pattern will be cut on the crosswise grain parallel to the crosswise fold.