Using A Full Lengthwise Fold In The Pattern Cutting Process
In the dressmaking process, you'll find yourself working with various types of patterns that require special cuts. In your pattern set, it is common to have both cut-on-fold patterns and patterns requiring double or multiple cuts. For that reason, in the pattern cutting process, you will need to fold the fabric to not only save space, but also save time and work more efficiently.
There are a few different ways you can fold fabric prior to aligning, pinning and cutting your patterns. The folding style will depend mainly on the style of patterns you are working with. If your garment includes patterns that require cut on fold and/or double or multiple cut patterns, it may be most efficient to align the fabric in a full lengthwise fold with fabric selvage edges perfectly meeting and aligning.
A full lengthwise fold is an easy and convenient way to fold your fabric in preparation for pattern cutting. It is commonly used when all your patterns require double cuts or to be cut on fold. It is especially convenient when working with wider patterns or multiple patterns that will fill the entire fabric width (as shown above).
The fabric should be folded with fabric face sides touching such that all markings transferred from the paper patterns onto the fabric layers end up on the fabric's wrong side. This is perhaps the most classic and convenient fabric folding style used in the pattern cutting process.
Since a full lengthwise fold requires both selvage edges to align perfectly, the fabric's fold will naturally fall on the lengthwise grain. This means that the pattern's cut-on-fold edge can be safely aligned on grain, and the rest of the patterns' grainlines can be aligned in parallel relation to both the fabric fold or the selvage edges.